{"id":5219,"date":"2021-01-05T12:00:17","date_gmt":"2021-01-05T12:00:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/?p=5219"},"modified":"2021-01-05T18:01:35","modified_gmt":"2021-01-05T18:01:35","slug":"the-last-generation-the-fadeaway-of-chinese-takeout-kids","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/the-last-generation-the-fadeaway-of-chinese-takeout-kids\/","title":{"rendered":"The Last Generation: The Fadeaway of Chinese Takeout Kids"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/feature-photo-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5222\" src=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/feature-photo-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/feature-photo-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/feature-photo-300x125.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/feature-photo-1024x427.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/feature-photo-768x320.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/feature-photo-1536x640.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/feature-photo-2048x853.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/a><\/span><\/i><\/p>\n<p><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Chinese restaurants around the United States are closing and owners say \u201cthat\u2019s a good thing.\u201d But how do the children who were raised in them feel about the erasure of their uniquely shared childhood experience? This essay is the collective story of four family restaurant owners\u2019 children: Donna Kwok, Mike Wang, Brian Cheng, and our author, Su-Jit Lin. It was conceived as a response to a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2019\/12\/24\/upshot\/chinese-restaurants-closing-upward-mobility-second-generation.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">2019 New York Times article<\/a> about the increasing closures.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It\u2019s 4:45 PM in the middle of suburban Long Island, New York. A small child, black-haired head tilted down, sits on his heels on a pleathered chair too low for his young frame. His brow furrows in concentration as he works out an elementary math equation. He pushes his pencil hard against the surface of the wobbly table, making scratching sounds as his sister silently mouths the words she\u2019s reading out of a textbook in the other corner of the room, intently blocking out the whooshing sounds of wok and fire in the background and exhaust fans churning.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">They\u2019re both in puffy winter coats; the constant opening and closing of the plate-glass door in the storefront lets in a lot of chill each time a customer enters or exits.\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote><p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I\u2019m not sorry I grew up in a takeout kitchen. And I know I\u2019m not alone.\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The phone rings from behind a Formica counter beneath faded backlit stock images of Americanized dishes unheard of in China. \u201cGet the phone!\u201d is heard from behind a stainless steel panel that hides a soup station, where another girl warms her hands on the steam table between counting wontons in groups of five and ten into stacked containers, ready for reheating. The reader lets out an exasperated sigh and emerges from her book to answer it. Homework will have to wait until after the dinner rush now.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Even ten years ago, this was a common scene for many in the suburbs \u2026 but not for much longer as Chinese family restaurants face extinction. The way of life for my family growing up &#8211; and millions of other first-generation Chinese takeout kids &#8211; is facing erasure.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_5227\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5227\" class=\"wp-image-5227 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-1.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-1-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-5227\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">An &#8216;old school&#8217; Chinese takeout restaurant in Seaford, New York.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">On Christmas Eve 2019, <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The New York Times<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> published an article bluntly entitled \u201c<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2019\/12\/24\/upshot\/chinese-restaurants-closing-upward-mobility-second-generation.html\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Chinese Restaurants Are Closing. That\u2019s a Good Thing, the Owners Say<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.\u201d In it, the authors Amelia Nierenberg and Quoctrung Bui talk to several immigrant entrepreneurs, all of whom are relieved that their restaurants will not be taken over by their children.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">They talk about the hardship, the struggle, the prejudice. They speak on the rising competition of a restaurant industry that is evolving faster than they themselves can. They reminisce about their sacrifices and their hopes for their children, how they feel about watching the next generation achieve the social mobility they had dreamt about, their pride watching their children live the American dream.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But how do their <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">children<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> feel? Are <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">they <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">happy to see their collective experience disappear in just one generation? And do <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">they<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> regret their way of life?\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Because <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> don\u2019t.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I was that child writing an essay at that rickety table. The child standing on a box in front of the salamander, broiling ribs between tending to the deep fryers, after having \u201cgraduated\u201d from scooping rice. The one unstringing snow peas, bagging soup noodles, wrapping wontons, boxing orders, dealing with irate customers, and giving up every weeknight, weekend, school break, and a \u201cnormal\u201d American childhood with my siblings as we all chipped in \u2026 all so that one day we wouldn\u2019t have to.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I lived that life, and<\/span> I don\u2019t regret it<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. For the lessons I learned, the fire in my belly, and the drive it gave me to strive for the fantasy my parents sacrificed so much to give us a shot at. Hard as it was &#8211; and it was <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">hard &#8211; <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I\u2019m not sorry I grew up in a takeout kitchen. And I know I\u2019m not alone.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_5228\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-8-donna-and-brian-copy.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5228\" class=\"wp-image-5228 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-8-donna-and-brian-copy.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-8-donna-and-brian-copy.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-8-donna-and-brian-copy-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-8-donna-and-brian-copy-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-5228\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pictured left, Donna Kwok and right, Brian Cheng.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">If there\u2019s one universal truth about working in the restaurant industry, it\u2019s that time becomes a blur of predictable monotony. Day in, day out, it\u2019s the same thing: you wake, you work, you tumble into bed and do it over and over again for years on end. This ceaseless cycle is magnified for private restaurateurs, as weekends signify workdays, not rest days, and vacations mean loss of income <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">and <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">costly expenditures.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For Chinese takeout families, the passing of time means even less. With no mainstream Christian or Jewish holidays to observe, no time for Chinese ones, no context for traditional American gatherings, and not even any childcare schedules to work around, there wasn\u2019t much to differentiate one day from another.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cEvery day after 3, we\u2019d get picked up from school and go straight to the restaurant,\u201d Donna Kwok, a Manhattan-based financial analyst and working mother, remembers vividly. Like me, Donna and her younger brother would, \u201cdo homework in the waiting area until the phones would ring and we\u2019d start to get busy &#8211; then it was time to help out.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote><p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Everyone was getting taken to houses and I was being dropped off in a parking lot.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Brian Cheng, now a senior manager in the pharmaceutical field, followed a similar schedule and cues, his mother running home to grab him and his two sisters as soon as the bus took them home. \u201cIf we had schoolwork, my parents would always say, yes, do that. But there would be a certain level of busy-ness, when the phones started really ringing and I could see my parents struggling to take or finish calls, that I knew to run in and help.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Mike Wang, a first-generation immigrant who became a medical practitioner and entrepreneur, didn\u2019t even get the small respite of an at-home breather between school and work &#8211; his parents arranged for the bus to drop him off at the restaurant. \u201cIt was really humiliating,\u201d he laughs wryly. \u201cI was just shy of nine and had just arrived in the U.S. from China, not even able to speak English. I got off the plane and pretty much immediately went to my mom\u2019s old, beat-up restaurant she\u2019d saved up for three years to buy while my dad and I were overseas &#8230;Then I started school the next day, and everyone was getting taken to houses and I was being dropped off in a parking lot.\u201d<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_5229\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-4.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5229\" class=\"wp-image-5229 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-4.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-4.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-4-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-4-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-5229\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The popular lucky cat figurine, a symbol of prosperity and good fortune, at J&amp;J Best Kitchen.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">However, there was always one day that was special, one day different from the other 364, that was for rest: Thanksgiving. The other holidays didn\u2019t exist. After all, Chinese food and Christmas go together like latkes and applesauce for many Jewish Americans, and Chinese holidays like the Lunar New Year didn\u2019t mean anything to their customers, who would be upset the store was closed, on top of the myriad other perceived offenses diners would take out on an uncomplaining model minority.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">On Thanksgiving, Chinese restaurants closed out of practicality, not nostalgia; they simply didn\u2019t do any business on the one day out of the year you could count on most people to be cooking at home. Chinese families, unindoctrinated to how the holiday was \u201csupposed\u201d to be celebrated, made their own traditions. My father took us into the city, and as we got older, to visit colleges, an annual adventure that helped to<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.huffpost.com\/entry\/thanksgiving-chinese-immigrants-tradition_n_5dde8a42e4b0d50f329a976f\"> <span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">shape the course of my future<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Others stayed closer to home. Says Kwok, \u201cIt was literally our only holiday, and I really looked forward to it since it was the one day Mom and Dad weren\u2019t working and we\u2019d be home and even have people come over to our house. My cousins and extended family would come over and we\u2019d all hang out and sit and eat dinner together \u2026 it was the <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">only<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> time we\u2019d get to sit together for an unrushed meal of real Chinese food brought in from Flushing and Chinatown.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For Cheng\u2019s family, it was simply a day off, and they\u2019d just hang out, play mah-jong, and make an easy meal of Chinese hot pot. A month after their one day off, kids like Wang would go on deliveries during Christmas and see lighted trees and piles of presents, feeling completely removed from it.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cI thought my life would <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">never<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> be like that &#8211; that kind of family life was for white people. For kids like me, there was no summer, no camp, no pool parties, no Halloween. It was never on the table. Our family life was working together. Even now, to this day, we\u2019ve never taken a family vacation,\u201d Wang says matter-of-factly.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cThe only time my parents ever went anywhere was back to China because a relative died or there was some business that needed to be handled,\u201d Kwok reflects. \u201cThat was ten or 12 years ago.\u201d<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">My own family has taken only one vacation together, only <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">after<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> they sold the restaurant and only because the experience was a retirement gift. To this day, my father\u2019s simple bucket list still includes seeing the Caribbean Sea.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">However, experiencing this limitation has imbued an immense sense of gratitude in my generation, the generation that has earned and educated their way out of this lifestyle. I work in the travel industry, a dream for even those who <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">did <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">grow up with the opportunity to do so. Cheng and Kwok have traveled in Europe, and Wang\u2019s path has taken him as far as the deserts of the Middle East. This has helped us better understand the temporary state of today\u2019s COVID-related travel freezes, and appreciate the impermanence of restriction after being raised in an environment where travel wasn\u2019t even in the realm of possibility.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In the simplest of terms, life without holidays gave us appreciation for something many Americans claim as an inherent right: <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">freedom<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_5230\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-9-mike-and-su-jit.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5230\" class=\"wp-image-5230 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-9-mike-and-su-jit.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-9-mike-and-su-jit.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-9-mike-and-su-jit-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-9-mike-and-su-jit-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-5230\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pictured left, Mike Wang, and right, Su-Jit Lin.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Being a have-not has consequences beyond material things. For many Chinese-Americans from the restaurant sector, it often means additional discrimination and amplified disrespect. It\u2019s much easier to see someone as a second-class citizen when their English is broken and they lack the bright flash of money as a distraction.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cPeople can become very nasty,\u201d Kwok learned from an early age working in the food industry. \u201cI remember one guy &#8211; he was eating his lunch and halfway through, he was like, \u2018I don\u2019t like it. I want a refund.\u2019 Another time, a lady brought her jacket in and said, \u2018Your sauce spilled all over this sleeve; you owe me a jacket.\u2019 She threatened to call the cops and have lawyers call, even though she spilled the sauce at home. <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">She goes on, \u201cThere were so many just <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">nasty<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> moments like that, with people threatening to call the health department, the police, immigration, and you know, the customer\u2019s always right. With my parents being immigrants, I knew that they felt that they were easy targets &#8211; people who feel that your English is not good or that you don\u2019t really know your place make it apparent they believe they\u2019ll always have an upper hand over you. It\u2019s what they\u2019re trying to portray.\u201d\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote><p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">With my parents being immigrants, I knew that they felt that they were easy targets.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cWhen people were nasty to my parents,\u201d Kwok shares, \u201cwe all felt no one could do much. They couldn\u2019t truly understand what was being said, and you get a fear of what people might do, of the inconvenience and legality,\u201d no matter how unfounded the allegations. In a vulnerable position of uncertainty and lack of familiarity, you begin to question things, to fear repercussion and default to subservience.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Her anecdotes are echoed by Wang and Cheng with eerie similarity to those in my own family. My little sister will never forget the time someone on the phone demanded, before she even said anything beyond the initial greeting, to \u201ctalk to someone who talks English; I can\u2019t understand you people.\u201d My parents were sued by a customer who wore heels in a rainstorm and consequently slipped on the floor. We had customers ask for refunds for eaten food that they later claimed had bugs in it, threatening scathing Yelp reviews if they didn\u2019t get their way. As Wang points out, \u201cAs successful as a Chinese restaurant may be, owners will always bend over backwards, customizing dishes and over-accommodating to be competitive\u201d and to try to overcome the stereotype of low-quality, dirty establishments run by uneducated people.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_5231\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-3.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5231\" class=\"wp-image-5231 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-3.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-3-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-3-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-5231\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Variations of the classic neon sign can be found hanging in many Chinese take-out restaurants, a beacon of reliable food service available almost every day of the year.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Sadly, the attitude hasn\u2019t changed much &#8211; part of why the old guard of takeout owners rejoice in their children not taking up the mantle. As recently as three weeks ago, Wang\u2019s mom patiently heard out a customer who complained about paying $6.50 for a lunch special that included fried rice, an entr\u00e9e, and soup or soda. \u201cYou can\u2019t even get a fast food combo for that price anymore,\u201d Wang shakes his head in resignation. \u201cBut what can you do?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The answer to that, for our parents, has been to push us, in their own individual ways, to leave the path they trod by sharing it with us.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I\u2019ll never forget what my parents said to me in response to a fit of rebellion: that if I didn\u2019t put school first that <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">this &#8211; <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">gesturing to the takeout around us &#8211; all of THIS would be my life. That shut me up quickly.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cI think a lot of people don\u2019t realize how hard it is to own your own business,\u201d Cheng observes. \u201cWhen you grow up working in one every day, after school, on weekends, you see how difficult it is; you see the physical toll.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It was the hardship itself &#8211; and fear or it &#8211; that lit the fire in the last generation of takeout kids, propelling us to quickly, in one generation, mobilize upward and out of it.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<blockquote><p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Redemption comes in different forms.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Contrary to stereotypical beliefs, our generation wasn\u2019t Tiger Mom\u2019d out of the industry. Sure, every set of parents here would love a doctor in the family. But who wouldn\u2019t?\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In reality, Cheng\u2019s parents weren\u2019t adamant about him going white collar\u2014they made it a given, hypothesizing about future career paths in medicine and never speaking about the possibility that he\u2019d ever run a restaurant. Mine did the same\u2014they led by assumption. Kwok\u2019s parents emphasized working in a field that would allow her to start off a step ahead, e.g. a good starting salary and room for growth so that she could enjoy the work\/life balance they never had. Where we took our education was up to us, so long as we could make a good living and enjoy the financial security they couldn\u2019t provide in the cutthroat restaurant business.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Wang actually <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">did <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">pursue a doctorate in medicine. However, to the great chagrin of his parents, he left healthcare to come back to his roots. When he told his mother in front of the prestigious hospital he worked for, she looked at the building teary-eyed and told him, \u201cI can\u2019t believe you gave up working in that building to go back to restaurants.\u201d<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cThere was such a sadness there,\u201d he recalled, \u201cwhere I could tell she was asking herself, \u2018Did I fail my kid?\u2019\u201d<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_5233\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-5.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5233\" class=\"wp-image-5233 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-5.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-5-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-5-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-5233\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A spread of popular menu items at the new-school Chinese restaurant, M\u00d3G\u016a, owned by Mike Wang.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But it\u2019s different this time. It\u2019s different for us when we go back to food. Because redemption comes in different forms.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Wang\u2019s return to food is as an entrepreneur and the founder of M\u00d3G\u016a, an automated fast-casual concept already set to revolutionize how we eat and view Chinese takeout. Mine has taken me to the other side of the counter: I write about food from the perspective of an intimate insider with the passion and zeal of lived experience. Best of all, I get to do it in a language people used to assume I couldn\u2019t speak.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Kwok\u2019s arc leads directly to her son as she teaches him to \u201cstand up for himself, to go for his goals and dreams, as well as to work hard as my family did.\u201d Her validation comes from being able to enroll him in extracurriculars and all of his day care\u2019s activities, and do things as simple as buying him toys without worrying about what her next week\u2019s income would be. \u201cI don\u2019t want him to feel what I felt growing up, that I was missing out,\u201d she says protectively.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Our generation is a product of our time and the politics around it. It will never again be replicated.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_5234\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-6.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5234\" class=\"wp-image-5234 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-6.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-6.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-6-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-6-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-5234\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The faded sign at Hing Hing Kitchen in Lindenhurst, NY.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Wang aptly sums it up. \u201cOur parents immigrated when China was communist, the economy there wasn\u2019t yet westernized, and the U.S. was booming as a leader of the world. Into that, here comes this group of immigrants desperately trying to fit into the society with very, very little resources and options. I lived in a one-room apartment with my parents; I could [reach across and] touch their bed.\u201d My own mother and grandparents shared a single room in a house, too, with other Chinese families. So did Cheng\u2019s father.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cNow,\u201d Wang continues, \u201cthey come here and go to Ivy League schools.\u201d<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">He, like the rest of us, grieves the death of the lifestyle we grew up with because, \u201cit\u2019s those challenging times that hardened us as people to be survivalists, to persevere, to persist through all odds. I fear that these defining traits may be diluted \u2026 they will never experience the struggle.\u201d<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cThe work mentality, the rejection of laziness \u2026 you carry that with you,\u201d says Kwok \u201cI want [my son] to know the value of hard work, something I experienced first hand growing up &#8211; even though the goal of my parents, of <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">every<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> parent, is to have their children not to have to work as hard as <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">they<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> did.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_5232\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-7.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5232\" class=\"wp-image-5232 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-7.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-7.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-7-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/sub-photo-7-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-5232\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pictured left to right: Brian Cheng, Donna Kwok, Su-Jit Lin, Mike Wang, in the kitchen at Wang&#8217;s restaurant, M\u00d3G\u016a, in Farmingdale, NY.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Despite the long hours, the missed opportunities, the hardship\u2014there is a fierce sense of pride that emanates from the battle scars. There\u2019s a deep satisfaction in success, shared among the Cinderella stories of our peers. As challenging as it was, I am saddened that once we are gone, our shared experience is, too.\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So, yes, Chinese restaurants are closing, and some owners say that&#8217;s a good thing&#8230;<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But the product of them? We\u2019re not so sure. Because although Cheng, Kwok, and Wang all say they wouldn\u2019t wish that way of life upon their own kids, there is a competing sense of concern that the future generations will be worse off without it. That the ethic and hunger that defined us and <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">made<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> us this upwardly mobile within one generation will be lost with our living memory.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Only time will tell.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Su-Jit Lin is a storyteller first and everything else second. Her work has been featured on Thrillist, PEOPLE, Al Jazeera, Folks, Longreads, The Spruce Eats, Yummly, AllRecipes, The Kitchn, Ravishly, AAA Magazine editions, Edible Long Island, Where Y\u2019at, and others. Her person, however, can be found traveling for food, working off the food at the gym or on some type of adventure, or writing essays about all of the above and how they shape the human experience.\u00a0<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Christine Han is a New York City-based commercial and editorial photographer specializing in portraits, lifestyle, food and still life. Her approach is relaxed and collaborative, and she excels in making natural, authentic imagery that brings out the inherent beauty in every subject. You can find more of her work at <a href=\"http:\/\/www.christinehanphotography.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">christinehanphotography.com<\/a> and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/christineshoots\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">@christineshoots<\/a>.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Chinese restaurants around the United States are closing and owners say \u201cthat\u2019s a good thing.\u201d But how do the children who were raised in them feel about the erasure of their uniquely shared childhood experience? This essay is the collective story of four family restaurant owners\u2019 children: Donna Kwok, Mike Wang, Brian Cheng, and our [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[7,11,8],"class_list":["post-5219","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-business","tag-culinary","tag-other"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>The Last Generation: The Fadeaway of Chinese Takeout Kids - Good Food Jobs<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dev.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/the-last-generation-the-fadeaway-of-chinese-takeout-kids\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Last Generation: The Fadeaway of Chinese Takeout Kids - Good Food Jobs\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Chinese restaurants around the United States are closing and owners say \u201cthat\u2019s a good thing.\u201d But how do the children who were raised in them feel about the erasure of their uniquely shared childhood experience? 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